Dolly Sods Wilderness Trip
What is the Dolly Sods?
The Dolly Sods Wilderness in West Virginia is a strikingly unique and scenic region within the Monongahela National Forest, known for its expansive views, rocky landscapes, and high-altitude bogs. Located in the Allegheny Mountains at elevations that reach over 4,000 feet, Dolly Sods offers a distinctly rugged, subalpine environment with tundra-like conditions rare in the eastern United States. Its name reflects the area’s early history, with “Dolly” originating from the German Dahle family who settled here, and “Sods” referring to open grassy meadows. With its wind-sculpted spruce trees, heath barrens, and windswept plateau, the landscape of Dolly Sods feels like a portal to a more northern, Arctic ecosystem, offering a diverse and unique experience for visitors.
The wilderness spans over 17,000 acres and is known for its rich biodiversity and wildlife. Dolly Sods is part of the greater Red Creek watershed, which supports a network of unique plant species, including cranberries, sphagnum moss, and blueberries that thrive in the cool, damp environment. Wildlife, including black bears, deer, and diverse bird species, finds sanctuary in this protected space. Its bogs, heath, and open meadows are interspersed with towering rock outcrops, giving the area a wild, unspoiled character that has made it a priority for conservation efforts. The climate and flora here mirror areas much farther north, due in part to its elevation and history of glacial influence, which make it an ecological treasure and a research hotspot for scientists studying unique Appalachian ecosystems.
The trails are often rocky, and the weather can shift quickly, so it is essential to be prepared. Visitors can explore the popular Bear Rocks Preserve, a windswept rock formation offering panoramic views of the Canaan Valley, traverse the northern Dolly Sods for its open meadows and frequent sightings of unique flora and fauna, or climb the Lion’s Head overlook in the southern Sods. The wilderness designation of Dolly Sods means that it is largely untouched by human development, offering a remote and rustic experience ideal for those seeking solitude and a connection to nature. Each season transforms the landscape, from colorful blooms in the spring and summer to the vibrant red and orange foliage in the fall, and finally, the frost-covered terrain of winter, making Dolly Sods a year-round destination for nature lovers.
Planning and Gear
I recently started learning how to use CalTopo for route planning. The interface can be a little intimidating at first, but once I got the hang of the basics, it is very useful for calculating mileage and elevation gain/loss.
Red track is my hiking route using CalTopo
Also calculates the elevation profile
The HikingUpward web site had a nice overview of the Lion’s Head/Bear Rocks loop, albeit starting at the Bear Rocks trailhead instead of the Red Creek trailhead where I planned to begin. By starting from Bear Rocks, the loop can be as short as 21 miles round-trip, whereas my route was 28.5 miles.
This would be my second trip with my Gossamer Gear The One single-wall tent. I also recently made a cat-food can alcohol stove that I decided to take on this trip since it meant I could bring ~110ml of fuel in a squeeze bottle rather than a fuel isobutane canister. I almost came to regret going with the alcohol stove over the canister stove (more on that later). I also decided to try strapping my Gossamer Gear Thinlight foam pad to the top of my pack to see if the increased accessibility would remind me to use it more during breaks. With plenty of sun in the forecast and limited tree cover in the north Sods, I wore my Sahara sun hoodie as my primary top layer. The last additional item I added was a Govee Bluetooth thermometer. At less than an ounce, it is a very lightweight way to know exactly what temperature ranges I would experience on the trip.
Day 1
I drove to Dolly Sods from Ohio, so I decided to use the Red Creek trailhead for access. The trailhead parking lot was a bit confusing, but I just parked next to a few other cards and figured I was good. The trailhead itself has good signage and an optional log book to enter your expected itinerary. The trail itself has no blazes, though intersections are marked by signs. In fall with the leaves down, following the trail can be a bit tricky. I quickly managed to lose the trail after passing through a camp site. It is not really possible to get lost since this stretch of trail parallels the Red Creek, but bushwhacking does make for a slower pace. I did manage to find the junction with the Little Stonecoal Trail where it crosses Red Creek, and it did not look like a well-traveled path.
Little Stonecoal Trail Red Creek crossing
Soon enough, I encountered three hikers going the opposite direction about 50 feet away, and thanks to their superior wayfinding I was able to get back on the trail. When I was planning the trip, I was not sure if I would continue on the Red Creek Trail until it joined the Rocky Point Trail upstream, or take the Big Stonecoal Trail up to the Rocky Point Trail to check out the Lion’s Head overlook. I planned to visit Lion’s Head on Day 3, so I did not necessarily have to see it on Day 1. As I got further along the Red Creek, the trail stayed far enough into the forest that there were not a ton of views of the creek.
*Good view down into Red Creek&
As a result, I decided to take Big Stonecoal, cross Red Creek, and head uphill to Lion’s Head. The creek cross with beautiful, with just a big of challenge rock-hopping to keep my feet dry.
Downstream at Red Creek crossing
Upstream at Red Creek crossing
Knowing that I would be heading away from obvious water sources, I planned to fill up after crossing the creek so I would have plenty for the rest of the day. It was at this point where things went a bit south. During my last trip, I had gotten frustrated with the slow flow rate on my Sawyer Squeeze. When I got home, I did a bunch of backflushing, soaked it in vinegar, and had the flow rate like when it was brand new. Prior to this trip, I pre-soaked it in distilled water but did not actually test it. Big mistake! As I tried to filter water, there was literally no flow. I don’t know how it happened, but it seemed completely clogged. Out of frustration, I dumped the water I had collected and decided I could make it on the remaining 0.7L or so I had left and figure out what to do when I found my campsite for the night.
And so I commenced my climb up Big Stonecoal, going over in my mind how I was going to make it the next two days with a non-functioning filter. It was at this point that I began regretting not bringing my canister stove, since that would at least have given me the option to boil water. As it was, I had only enough fuel to cook meals plus an extra 25% or so, certainly not enough to boil multiple liters of water. But that was a problem for later. I resolved to enjoy the rest of the day and figure things out as I went.
The climb up Big Stonecoal was quite rocky (this would become a theme!), but the uneven footing served to limit my pace, which moderated the effects of elevation gain.
Climb up Big Stonecoal
Eventually I reached the intersection with the Rocky Point Trail and heading south towards Lion’s Head. I skipped the first entrance to the side trail to Lion’s Head and head up the second one. It required some scrambling but nothing too difficult to reach the upper level of the overlook. From there, it became careful rock hopping to find the best views of the surrounding valley and hills.
Slight scramble to reach the top level of Lion’s Head
Looks like a lion to me
Views from Lion’s Head
Or maybe that’s the Lion’s Head?
Selfie time!
After descending from Lion’s Head, I learned exactly how the Rocky Point Trail got its name:
Yes, that is rocky
Trails with “rocky” in the name are a common theme in the Dolly Sods, and they got those names for good reason. It took some time, but eventually the rock-strewn trail gave way to milder footing through the forest. This allowed me to push a little faster toward my planned campsite near “The Forks”, which is where the Left and Right Forks of the Red Creek join.
A nice break for the feet
Surprisingly, I had the entire Forks campsite area to myself. There are several beautiful waterfalls and variety of stone chairs and fire rings that have been assembled over the years.
With daylight fading, I focused on making dinner, knowing I could attempt to filter water again after dark. I cooked near the fire pit and started setting up my tent in a cluster of pine trees nearby. I forgot to let the alcohol stove get going before adding my pot and did not set up my windscreen very well. As a result, I was not able to boil water as long as I would have liked, another downside of my stove choice for the trip.
Stone camp chair and fire pit
Wider view of stone “furniture”
Waterfall near The Forks
Regardless, I got a burst of energy from dinner, and settled into a stone chair (cushioned by my Thinlight!) to take another shot at filtering water. I took advantage of all the stone surfaces around me and really knocked my Sawyer around, hoping the it would clear whatever was blocking the flow. After giving it a solid beating, I was able to get a decent enough flow out of it, much to my relief. It probably took 10-15 minutes to filter a liter of water, but with darkness falling, I had plenty of time to spend filling up my water bottles.
I ended up setting up my tent by headlamp in the fading light and filtered my second liter of water by headlamp in the dark. I finally settled into my sleeping bag under the pine trees, savoring the sound of Red Creek rushing over the waterfalls and around boulders and rocks.
Day 2
Day 2 began around 6:15 AM. I started packing up inside my tent while it was still dark. I checked the Govee thermometer and the overnight low was 42F. A quick breakfast warmed me up, and I hit the trail by 7:30. my pack weighed down with nearly 4 liters of water. I was not sure where the next water source would be, so I loaded up with nearly 4L of water.
The morning hiking was beautiful, slowly gaining elevation through scrubby meadows and red spruce forests, with early-morning light just beginning to spill over the hills.
Meadow in early morning light
Views began opening up along Upper Red Creek, offering glimpses of the wilderness spreading out in all directions.
Views on Upper Red Creek Trail
Just before the junction with Dobbins Grade, a beaver dam made for some muddy patches. The tenth of a mile I spent on the Dobbins Grade Trail itself lived up to its reputation as one long mud pit and confirmed my decision to take the longer but hopefully drier Raven Ridge Trail.
Looking back south on Raven Ridge Trail
The Raven Ridge Trail climbed steadily but at a very reasonable pace, flanked by sweeping views, open spaces, and eventually passing through patches of forest. I reached the Sundew Trail trail junction and headed east toward Bear Rocks.
Up and over a knob on the Sundew Trail
View to the south on Sundew Trail
After crossing several rolling knobs along the Sundew Trail, I stopped for a break by the Upper Red Creek crossing. The creek was flowing steadily, so I dumped my extra water to shed weight and enjoyed a snack in the shade. Two kids from a family camping next to the creek stopped by to ask if I had a lighter they could borrow. I did, and it made me feel a bit better about my own failures to pack and verify all my gear.
The air grew warmer as the sun rose, and I reached Bear Rocks around 10:30 AM. I do not know if I made it to the “official” Bear Rocks, but I had plenty of wide-open views of the valley below. After resting a bit and enjoying the view from a small campsite tucked in a grove of trees, I retraced my route west down the Sundew Trail.
Views from Bear Rocks
Proof I was there!
View from small campsite
Heading back down the Sundew Trail
As the day wore on, I could feel the exposure to sun and wind beginning to drain some of my energy. A quick stop to filter water at the Red Creek crossing gave me a boost to head back uphill to the Raven Ridge Trail junction. From there, I would be covering new ground, with views opening up to both the south and the north.
More views along Raven Ridge
By mid-afternoon, I reached the northwest corner of Dolly Sods where Raven Ridge Trail ends and the Rocky Ridge Trail begins heading south. This stretch was a sea of boulders with many vistas into the Canaan Valley to the west.
Boulders everywhere
Lake in the valley
Rock formations along the trail
Looks like an elephant!
The sun and wind was unrelenting, so I spent most of this stretch looking down to avoid the blinding glare and to carefully choose my footing. Rocky Knob and Harman Knob each offered their overlooks, but all the rocks, roots, and swampy patches kept me treading carefully.
More views into the Canaan Valley
Climbing Harman Knob
Views from the top of Harman Knob
Beautiful fall foliage
From Harman Knob, the trail began a gradual but steady descent.
Descending the trail
Eventually, I reached the intersection with the Breathed Mountain and Big Stonecoal Trails. The push down Big Stonecoal wasn’t much easier–it started out boggy, then came rocks and roots, and the rhododendrons closed in tightly in places making it difficult to follow the trail. I ended up off trail at one point but knew the general direction where the trail should be and was able to get back on it with minimal bushwhacking.
The trail eventually followed alongside Stonecoal Run, and I passed another beaver dam. I crossed Stonecoal Run and stopped to filter water, mistakenly thinking I was at my campsite for the night before realizing I still had a bit to go.
Beaver Dam on Stonecoal Run
Heading onward to the next crossing, I checked out several campsites and chose the large one a bit upstream of the crossing. I had considered pushing even further and camping near Lion’s Head but ultimately decided against it. Staying put gave me plenty of time to set up camp and cook dinner before dark.
Campsite fire ring
Tent set up in pine grove
I saved water filtering until after dark and then climbed into my tent for the night. Temperatures dipped to 41 degrees overnight, but I was plenty comfortable with my quilt and down jacket.
Day 3
I slept in a bit on Day 3, staying under my quilt until about 6:45 AM. I packed up as much as I could inside the tent and then emerged to make breakfast. I was back on the trail by 8:00, and quickly reached the Dunkenbarger Trail intersection. Since I made it to Lion’s Head on Day 1, I was considering taking the Dunkenbarger Trail to try a different route and shave off a bit of distance. One look at the trail told me it was not well-traveled, and I could barely make out any path through the woods. A second trip to Lion’s Head it would be!
Crossing Stonecoal Run
Waterfall on Stonecoal Run
Rock outcropping
As I headed towards the Rocky Point Trail, I could feel a warm breeze even though it was still relatively early in the morning. This time I took the first entrance to the side trail to Lion’s Head. The ascent was steep at first, but no scrambling required. Soon the trail flattened to an easy stroll through the forest.
Through the trees to Lion’s Head
I passed several excellent campsites. The only downside is the need to haul all your water since there are no sources nearby. The last campsite was occupied by two hikers from New Jersey, and I stopped to chat with them for a few minutes, trading stories about our routes and trip.
Once out of the forest and onto the rocks, the wind was much stronger than Day 1, whipping around as I settled in at the edge of the overlook. I sat there and enjoyed a snack, taking int he view of the valley spread out below, shimmering in the morning sun, dotted with fall colors and morning shadows.
Views from Lion’s Head
After a while, I packed up and retraced my route back down the side trail. The hike down Big Stonecoal Trail was slower than I remembered, with plenty of roots and rocks making for treacherous footing. I think it was easier going up than it was coming down!
The final crossing of Red Creek put me back on the Red Creek Trail. The final stretch was smooth, and I navigated my way without losing the trail this time. As I neared the trailhead, I passed several more hikers just setting out. The parking lot was just as full as I left it, and I even had to back up and let two cars coming towards the trailhead cross the single-lane bridge over Red Creek before I could head back home.
Crossing Red Creek for the last time
Trip Summary
The Dolly Sods was incredible! I learned about the area because it shows up on lots of “best places to backpack in the mid-Atlantic” lists, and it did not disappoint. The variety of landscapes, overlooks, vistas everywhere, and campsite options certainly made it worth the five-plus hour drive to get there. In my opinion, the mileage-to-cool-things-to-see ratio is phenomenal. My 28.5 mile loop was packed with scenery and views throughout, and if you were to start from Bear Rocks, you could get the same experience in just over a 21-mile loop.
I was watching the weather forecast closely, and I had nearly perfect weather for late October. If anything it was even a bit warm, with low 70s during the day and full sun, lows in the low 40s at night, and not a hint of rain. If you have questions before a trip, I recommend calling the Cheat-Potomac District Monogahela National Forest Office. They were very knowledgeable and able to answer all my questions. If only I had thought to ask about water flow in the Upper Red Creek, I could have avoided carrying so much water on Day 2!
Some lessons learned: always check your water filter before you leave, even if it worked great when you stored it after your last trip and consider how failures can cascade. My filter not working was made worse by not having enough fuel to boil water if I had to. In the future, if I am going on a solo multi-day trip, I will either bring an alternate water treatment method or a fuel canister so I can boil water as a last resort. Of course, one advantage of a group trip vs. a solo one is those backup options can be gear that others have. If multiple people in a group have water filters, it’s not necessary for any one person to bring a backup.
Lastly, the sun hoodie was a good call. It was very open in the northern Sods and the sun was beaming down all day. The hood and my bucket had served to both keep the sun off and shield some of the wind as it picked up on Day 2. It was definitely worth bringing the Thinlight and strapping it to the top of my pack. It snagged a couple times when going through brush, but having it in an easy to grab place made it much more comfortable to stop for a quick break on a trailside boulder.
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